Imagine this: you’re in a sculptor’s studio tucked away in the Scottish Highlands. It used to be a schoolhouse, but now it’s the birthplace of something truly incredible. Michael Visocchi, the sculptor in question, is working on a massive piece, a whale memorial in fact, called “Commensalis” that’s destined for a far-flung location – Grytviken, an abandoned whaling station on the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia.
Just live, this BBC World Service programme pulls together not just challenges of the sculpture itself, but the journey so far and some of Visocchi’s concerns as well as learning much about South Georgia from Alison Neil, South Georgia Heritage Trust’s Chief Executive and the organisation behind the whale memorial concept.
What’s This All About?
Here’s the thing about Grytviken, it’s a place haunted by a dark past. Between 1904 and 1966, thousands of whales were slaughtered there. Whaling ships also brought unwelcome guests – rats – who feasted on the island’s birdlife, pushing some species to the brink of extinction. But there’s a glimmer of hope! With whaling gone and the rats eradicated – through a four year ‘Habitat Restoration Project’ carried out by the South Georgia Heritage Trust (SGHT), the Friends of South Georgia Island (FOSGI) and supported by the Government of South Georgia &the South Sandwich Islands (GSGSSI)– whales are making a comeback, with seal and bird populations bouncing back too. South Georgia is an ecosystem on the mend. Even David Attenborough describes it as a ‘…scene of a remarkable biological renaissance’ (read his letter HERE).
The whaling industry left its mark on Grytviken in the form of a giant, rusty scrapyard. Ships are slowly succumbing to the elements on the shore, and enormous oil tanks are slowly decaying inland. But amidst this bleakness, Visocchi found inspiration. He noticed an uncanny resemblance between the shape of the rivets scattered around the site and the bumps created by barnacles on whales.
Barnacles, by the way, have a fascinating relationship with whales – a commensal one, to be precise. In this type of relationship, one species benefits from the other without causing any harm.
Visocchi’s creation will be a series of large steel “tables” that mirror the shape and rusty hue of the old oil tanks. Each table represents a whale species that was hunted there, and their surfaces will be adorned with patterns of polished rivets – a symbolic representation of the whales that were lost.
Visocchi has visited this remote island twice – the first time to find inspiration, and the second time to figure out the logistics of creating and installing the artwork amidst the seals and penguins. Even if you have never visited, you can really start to get a feel for this incredible wildlife haven from the broadcast, where you can hear South Georgia’s wildlife in the background. Listen out for what happens when he accidentally upsets the Terns!
The whole project has been a challenge – from the concept itself to the technical aspects, the time commitment (it’s been three years in the making), and even the ethics. South Georgia has no permanent residents, and this is a public art installation – but of course it receives plenty of visitors during the Antarctic ‘summer’ where the island’s museum and post office are open and manned. The island is littered with the remnants of human activity and Visocchi is grappling with that as he brings this whale memorial to life. As a visitor to this beautiful but somewhat haunting place, a permanent reminder of our whale recovery, but one that is still in keeping with how South Georgia looks today, could only enhance the visitor experience. It would be a poignant counterpoint to the rusting machinery, a testament to both the destruction we wrought and the resilience of nature. One that would give us hope.
But pour that cup of tea and take a moment to listen to this BBC programme – in the studio with Michael Visocchi.
A project that compels you to think about our relationship with nature, the scars we leave behind, and the possibility of healing.
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Join the Guardians: Shaping the Future of South Georgia
Becoming a Guardian of the South Georgia Heritage Trust is like joining a team of real-life superheroes protecting a piece of paradise! At least, that’s my perception. The Trust works to preserve and protect South Georgia’s unique environment and historical sites. By becoming a Guardian, you’re directly contributing to their efforts to conserve this incredible place helping to fund vital conservation projects, research initiatives, and educational programs. This includes the creation of The Whale Memorial or Commensalis sculpture, a stunning memorial to the island’s whaling history and its marine life. So, by becoming a Guardian, you’re not just donating; you’re actively shaping the future of South Georgia and supporting a truly inspiring project.
You join me as a Guardian by gifting as little as £10 a month for 12 months either for yourself or for someone else – just choose your team, whether that’s ‘Chinstrap’, ‘Gentoo’ or ‘King’ or join team ‘Albatross’ with a lifetime membership. All you need to know is HERE.
